Category: travel

Threading Grendel’s Needle

Grendel’s Needle refers to a feature on a small island in San Francisco Bay. That feature is a slot in the rock on the westernmost of The Sisters Islands just off of Point San Pedro. When conditions are right it’s fun to paddle a kayak through the slot, an exercise we call threading Grendel’s Needle.

When we left our house in Albany, we had the windshield wipers going with dark clouds overhead. As we were crossing the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge though, we could see patches of blue sky and sun shining on San Rafael. Harbingers for a good day on the water.

Eight of us were on the water at 10:30, launching from the kayak ramp at the east end of the Loch Lomond Yacht Harbor. There was some discussion about whether wetsuits or drysuits would be the better option. For safety’s sake we like to “dress for immersion,” should we end up in the water. I opted for my drysuit. In hindsight the weather was quite mild and my wetsuit long john would have been more comfortable.

Once we were on the water we paddled out of the harbor and headed east rounding the Marin Islands. We then paddled on to Point San Pedro where we held up for some radio communications. We had a new member in our group who had never paddled through Grendel’s Needle, so we opted to head to The Sisters to thread the needle. With hardly any current going through the slot we had no trouble paddling back and forth through the slot. Trying to exercise some boat control I even paddled through the slot backwards.

After lunch at China Camp, we returned paddling close to shore. We were back at our launch site at about 2:30.

We logged 9 miles over the course of the day on relatively calm water. More photos are available in an online gallery.

Mendo Madness 2025

Every September our kayaking club, Bay Area Sea Kayakers (BASK), heads to Mendocino for a week. Over the course of the week there were some 70 or so club members camping at Van Damme State Park. Joann and I arrived on the afternoon of Monday, September 22. Events of the week included a number of organized paddles on the coast and on the rivers. I participated in four paddles, two river and two coastal.

September 23. Big River. The Big River empties into the ocean just south of the town of Mendocino. Nine of us were on the water at 10:00 launching from the sandy beach to the east of the highway.

This is a winding lazy river which feels the effects of the tides. Redwood trees come right down to the water, and the banks are lined with ferns and alders as well as redwoods. Paddling here is a serene and peaceful experience. Most of the group stopped for lunch at the “second culvert.” There is a dirt logging road that runs along part of the river, and the road goes over a couple of culverts that are big enough to paddle through. Rather than join the others for lunch, Joann and I opted to continue paddling up the river riding the tail end of the flood. At 11:30 we noted that the current had stopped going upstream. It was time to stop for lunch. I caught a glimpse of a river otter as we were preparing to stop. Other paddlers reported seeing a number of otters and a bear.

We found a shallow spot with a downed log, pulled our kayaks up out of the water and sat on the log while we ate lunch. As we were eating the water level was rising and our boats were threatening to float off without us. The dry log that we were sitting on was no longer dry. We hopped back in our boats and paddled back down the river. We seemed to be chasing a Great Blue Heron down the river. He would alight and fly down the river a few handed yards, only to repeat as we approached again. We were back at our launch site about 3:30 having logged 14.5 miles.

September 24. Open Coast. While the rivers are calm and serene, the coast can be quite dynamic. Some spots give you the sensation of being in a washing machine with water sloshing back and forth with the wave action. We joined a paddle led by two of our more experienced members, Tom and Ellen, launching from Van Damme Beach at 10:30. Eleven of us paddled south exploring a couple of caves and tunnels. There was plenty of dynamic water with a significant swell spicing things up. Fortunately, there are some reefs and rocks that provide protection for some of the features.

One popular feature is a pour over called Disney. A pour over is a feature where, with proper timing, you can ride a wave over a rock. I have watched many people execute this pour over on previous trips but never had the nerve to try it myself. Today it looked like something I could manage, so I went for it.

I positioned myself for the ride and was holding position while watching the waves, looking for the wave that I would ride. As a wave approached all the water in the hole I was in disappeared, and then with a whoosh a wave caught me and took me over the rock. I was quite happy that I stayed upright. Having a good bracing stroke saved me from capsizing. One of the pictures above shows Ellen riding over Disney.

September 25. Albion River. The Albion river is another lazy tidal river south of Mendocino. Nineteen of us launched from a boat ramp at the Albion River Campground. There are several houseboats on this river which gives it a sense of humanity although most of the houseboats are abandoned and deteriorating which gives them a ghostly feel.

We paddled up the river and found a dry marsh where we could haul out for lunch. After lunch we continued up the river until we were stopped by a downed tree at the 4 1/2 mile mark. Several people decided to haul their boats over the logs and continue exploring. That looked like quite an exercise, getting out of the boat, climbing up on the log and dragging a boat over. A couple of people ended up in the water, or hanging onto the log like drowned sloths. You can see a photo of Deborah hauling her boat over a log. Most of us were content to call this the end of the road and we headed back down the river.

September 27. Rock Gardening 101 and Potluck. Today I was happy to have made the list for Bill Vonnegut’s Rock Gardening 101 Class. This is all about learning how to read the water and making decisions about what features to explore given conditions and skill. I opted to leave my camera on the beach, since I wanted to be unencumbered by any equipment that might be a liability should I capsize. It was actually refreshing to concentrate on paddling without my mind always looking for photo ops.

One of the thrills was doing the elevator ride. Waves that come into a vertical surface such as a cliff lose their forward energy as they reflect off the cliff. You can actually point the bow of your boat at the cliff, holding it just inches away while the waves take you up and down. It’s an amazing experience. Conditions were such today that we did not execute any pour overs or explore any caves.

In the evening the club had a potluck dinner with more food than you can imagine. We participated in the Dutch Oven Cookoff, entering our Enchilada Casserole as an entree. After dinner, with our eyes drooping, we were off to bed before the awards were announced. We woke the next morning to discover that we had won the best entree. The award was a bottle of Silver Wood 2002 Cabernet. What an excellent wine! Cheers!

More photos are available in an online gallery.

Choppity Chop Chop

Today’s paddle takes us from Barbara and Jay Vincent Park in Richmond to the Berkeley Marina. We launched on a rising tide, with quite a bit of gravel beach exposed at 10:30. Current was not much of a concern. A gentle breeze was blowing when we launched with more wind predicted for the afternoon.

Once all nine of us were on the water we headed for the southeast corner of Brooks Island and then changed course for Berkeley. A few pelicans wheeled overhead, and a harbor seal startled when we must have interrupted its nap. We paddled inside the Berkeley breakwater and holed up near the entrance to the marina. There our leader announced that we would paddle into the marina and haul out at the boat ramp for lunch. It was 11:45 when we landed. After lunch and the requisite chocolate fix we were back on the water retracing our path.

We had just enough wind to create a bit of chop with a few waves splashing over my boat. I discovered that my spray skirt was leaking, and I could feel the cold water dribbling down the back of my wetsuit. I ended up with more water in my boat that I would like. The spray skirt is something I’ve been meaning to replace; today’s paddle makes it a priority. My boat handles well in the wind and the chop so the wet and bouncy ride made for a fun run.

At 1:45 we were back on the beach having logged 7.3 miles, and I felt like I had had a good workout. More photos are available in an online gallery.

Exploring Sausalito by Kayak

How often do you arrive at a planned event to find out everybody else is ahead of schedule? That happened to us today. We arrived at our launch site at 9:30 for a 10:30 launch to find everybody already had their boats on the beach, and suiting up to get on the water. I had to hustle to get my stuff together to join the huddle. Our fearless leader Jennifer gave us a briefing and after a radio check we were on the water at 10:15, 15 minutes ahead of schedule. Wind was predicted to build in the afternoon, so everybody was a bit anxious to get on the water early.

The plan was to launch from Horseshoe Bay to ride the flood around Yellow Bluff and explore the waterfront of Sausalito. After slack water at 12:03 we could then ride the ebb back. We made it as far as Dunphy Park where the wind was making us work. We decided that Dunphy Park would be our lunch stop since paddling further up Richardson Bay would mean a slog into the wind.

At 11:20 we were pulling our boats up the beach and unpacking lunch. A few flocks of pelicans plied the air, looking like some prehistoric flying animals. After a short lunch stop we were back on the water at noon anxious to get back before the wind continued to build. As we approached Yellow Bluff a few paddlers opted to explore the turbulent waters of the Yellow Bluff tide race, but the bulk of the pod decided to stay close to shore. We did have our work cut out with wind in areas that were exposed, but staying close to shore gave us some protection.

Coming around Point Cavallo we set a course away from the shore to avoid an eddy what would only add to our work effort. Once we were clear of the eddy we turned into the harbor. At 1:15 all eleven of us were back on the beach having logged 6.4 miles. A great paddle with great comradery and just enough spice from the wind to make the paddle interesting. More photos are available in an online gallery.

Paddle Adventure: Ferry Point to Angel Island

Today’s paddle takes us from Ferry Point in Richmond to Quary Beach on Angel Island. The plan was to take advantage of the currents, riding to the island on the end of the ebb tide and returning on the beginning of the flood. Our trip leader shared from her knowledge of the currents; as you approach Angel Islands the ebb current flows around both the north and south side of the island on its way out the Golden Gate. The trick is to pick a course that will keep you in a position so that you don’t get swept either way around the island. Slack water was at 11:14. After the usual briefing and safety check we were on the water at 9:25.

After launching off the beach we all held up to let the ferry pass, then we were out on the bay crossing to Angel Island on calm water with just a few bumps from passing ferries. Our intended course served us well. Once we were near the island we turned south, paddling around Quarry Point and landing on Quarry Beach at 11:45. Good timing for the day’s currents. We took advantage of the picnic tables on the bluff just above the beach.

After lunch we were back on the water heading back to our launch site. With the tide turning we were now paddling with the flood coming in the gate and we again chose a course to take advantage of the current, paddling back around the island to Point Simpton and then turning towards Richmond. On this leg we saw a few porpoises in the distance. As we crossed the open water, we started to experience some following seas. Nothing to alarm us, but it did require some skill to keep the boats on course.

Track of the paddle from Ferry Point to Angel Island

We were back on the beach at 12:55 having logged 8.4 miles. More photos are available in an online gallery.

Marconi to Tomales Beach

Today’s adventure takes us to Tomales Bay, one of my favorite places to paddle. We gathered at the beach at Marconi Cove, just south of the town of Marconi. There isn’t much here in the way of facilities. No toilets, and a gravel ramp. A nice gravel beach works well for launching kayaks. We gathered under grey skies with a prediction for light winds.

Nine of us, all BASK members, were on the water at 10:30. We paddled across the bay to the Point Reyes Peninsula, and then we followed the coast heading northwest along the coast.

Shortly after noon we landed on Tomales Beach. The cloud layer dissipated, and we enjoyed lunch on a sunny beach.

After lunch we made our way back to our launch site. It was just after 2:00 when we landed, having logged 8 miles.

Horseshoe to Angel Island

The plan was to launch our kayaks from Horseshoe Bay in Sausalito and to paddle to a beach near Point Blunt where we would land for lunch. After reviewing the paddle plan, a safety briefing and a radio check we were on the water at 10:30.

From Horseshoe Bay the nine of us paddled out in the clearing fog, with fog horns bellowing and ships horns bellowing. By paddling into the bay a bit, we were able to pick up a current to carry us towards Angel Island. Approaching the island, we found a patch of confused and lumpy water just off of Point Knoxx, not unusual for these waters. A peek around the Point suggested that our intended plan would involve a surf landing given the wind. The consensus of the group was to avoid the surf landing and to land at Fort Reynolds (West Garrison). The wind had come up more than we had anticipated, making conditions a bit more challenging.

After lunch we were back on the water. In order to avoid a long slog into the wind, we paddled across Raccoon Straight to Peninsula Point and then changed course for Sausalito. For this leg I was too busy paddling to pick up my camera. With part of our group apparently anxious to make a short path to Yellow Bluff, we had our work cut out paddling into the wind. A more efficient route would have been to paddle to the Sausalito coast before turning to Yellow Bluff. This was actually suggested as the preferred route, but pod dynamics being what they were, we worked a bit harder than we needed.

Once we were all gathered up inside of Yellow Bluff, we rounded the point and met the full force of wind blowing 20 knots or so. It was hard work covering the last quarter mile. We all felt like we had a good workout when we were back on the beach at 2:45, logging 8 miles. More photos are available in an online gallery

Paddling the Apostles

Our adventure starts on July 14. That’s when we met our guide and completed our safety check. The outfitters, Trek and Trail, require paddlers to demonstrate a wet exit and self-rescue to qualify to paddle single kayaks. Joann and I both successfully demonstrated the use the paddle float to get back in the boat.

The next morning, July 15 ,we arrived at the outfitters at 7:30 am to assemble the gear for our paddle. Once the gear was organized, we hopped in the van with kayaks in tow and headed to Sand Bay. We did a pretty quick job of packing all our gear for the three-day trip. At 9:30 we were on the water heading out to Sand Island.

On the Northeast corner of the island we paddled through some amazing sea caves. The red sandstone contrasting with the clear turquoise water was mesmerizing.

Once we were around the top of the island we stopped at the lighthouse, landing on some flat rocks. Nahon helped us beach our fully loaded kayaks. Actually, he single-handedly manhandled the boats.

We were treated to a personalized tour of the lighthouse from docent Laurie. With light rain falling and the forecast of a storm moving in, we didn’t dally too long at the lighthouse. We were back on the water shortly after noon, pressing on to get to our campsite for lunch.

On the last leg of our paddle, the sky continued to darken, and the skies exploded with thunder; not just occasional peal of thunder but a continual roar, as if the gods were tearing the skies apart. We were a bit anxious about being on the water with a thunderstorm in the distance. We pressed on and we were on the beach a short time later, landing at 12:30. We unpacked our gear and broke out lunch.

On July 16 we woke to wind, rain and the sound of surf pounding the beach. With small craft warnings up, we decided to explore the island on foot, hiking to the lighthouse and to East Bay. Dinner was pulled pork sandwiches. We ate well on the trip.

On July 17 we woke to sun and calm water. We broke camp, loaded the kayaks and continued our journey around Sand Island and back to the mainland.

Along the northwest side of the Bayfield Penninsua we found more sea caves to explore. We had fun paddling in and out of caves and through tunnels. The cliffs of red sandstone are covered with lush green vegetation and hanging gardens and waterfalls. I was struck by the sound created by the waves lapping into many miniature blow holes: plink, plop, ploink, squish, swish. It would be fun just to capture the sounds and compile them into a composition.

It was about 3:00 pm when we landed on Meyers Beach. There we unpacked and jumped in the van for the ride back to Trek and Trail in Bayfield. Our paddle out to the island and back logged a little over 22 miles. More photos are available in an online gallery. We were happy we had taken our drysuits with us. With the weather and cool temperatures, we stayed quite comfortable. The sign at Meyers Beach noted the water temperature at 41 degrees.

Bonny Doon Ecological Reserve

The Bonny Doon Ecological Reserve encompasses 552 acres protecting a habitat known as the Santa Cruz Sandhills. These sandhills are perched high above the bluffs, prairies and forests of the central California coast. The sandhills are outcrops of ancient marine life, sediment deposited over 15 million years ago when the region was beneath the sea. These habitats are host to a number of rare plants and animals. The reserve is managed by the California Department of Fish and Wildlife.

Grandson Micah was quite the nature guide, pointing out various plants and trees including Ponderosa Pine, Redwood and Madrone. We also saw a number of wildflowers.

What’s notable is that in 1989 The Nature Conservancy hired me to photograph this location as part of a fundraising effort to purchase the property. Fun to think that I played a role in protecting this environment.

Also it’s a joy to be able to enjoy this hike pain free. Nine months have passed since I had knee replacement surgery. A year ago I would have been hobbling in pain. I still have work to do on the recovery. I’m continuing Physical Therapy and building strength in the muscles that I hadn’t used for years.

We spent about two hours exploring the preserve, covering 2.3 miles of varied terrain from pines to redwoods, through ferns and chaparral. A glorious day to be exploring nature with family.

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Following our kayaking adventure, we rented a car and drove to Plitvice Lakes National Park. The park is in the mountainous karst area of central Croatia. Three of us, David, my wife Joann and me. We spent three nights at the Miric Inn, affording us two full days to explore the lakes.

On our first day, May 31, we explored the lower lakes. The trails meander around the lakes and over what seems like miles of boardwalks. Sometimes the boardwalks take you alongside and sometimes directly over waterfalls. Never in my wildest imagination could I imagine the expanse of water, lakes and falls. And the colors are dazzling. It’s an extraordinary experience.

The water cascades over dikes of tufa and travertine. Conditions are such that the water is saturated with minerals which precipitate out to form tufa.

The park service regulates guests with timed entries so that the park doesn’t get too crowded. We arranged an early entry so that we could have a full day to explore. Having had an early start, by mid-morning we were happy to find a sign directing us to coffee and snacks. We logged six miles on our first day, exploring the lakes by boat and on foot.

On our second day, June 1, we explored the upper lakes. Again, logging six miles. Here are a couple maps that track our tours. More photos are available in an online gallery.