Paddling the Apostles

Our adventure starts on July 14. That’s when we met our guide and completed our safety check. The outfitters, Trek and Trail, require paddlers to demonstrate a wet exit and self-rescue to qualify to paddle single kayaks. Joann and I both successfully demonstrated the use the paddle float to get back in the boat.

The next morning, July 15 ,we arrived at the outfitters at 7:30 am to assemble the gear for our paddle. Once the gear was organized, we hopped in the van with kayaks in tow and headed to Sand Bay. We did a pretty quick job of packing all our gear for the three-day trip. At 9:30 we were on the water heading out to Sand Island.

On the Northeast corner of the island we paddled through some amazing sea caves. The red sandstone contrasting with the clear turquoise water was mesmerizing.

Once we were around the top of the island we stopped at the lighthouse, landing on some flat rocks. Nahon helped us beach our fully loaded kayaks. Actually, he single-handedly manhandled the boats.

We were treated to a personalized tour of the lighthouse from docent Laurie. With light rain falling and the forecast of a storm moving in, we didn’t dally too long at the lighthouse. We were back on the water shortly after noon, pressing on to get to our campsite for lunch.

On the last leg of our paddle, the sky continued to darken, and the skies exploded with thunder; not just occasional peal of thunder but a continual roar, as if the gods were tearing the skies apart. We were a bit anxious about being on the water with a thunderstorm in the distance. We pressed on and we were on the beach a short time later, landing at 12:30. We unpacked our gear and broke out lunch.

On July 16 we woke to wind, rain and the sound of surf pounding the beach. With small craft warnings up, we decided to explore the island on foot, hiking to the lighthouse and to East Bay. Dinner was pulled pork sandwiches. We ate well on the trip.

On July 17 we woke to sun and calm water. We broke camp, loaded the kayaks and continued our journey around Sand Island and back to the mainland.

Along the northwest side of the Bayfield Penninsua we found more sea caves to explore. We had fun paddling in and out of caves and through tunnels. The cliffs of red sandstone are covered with lush green vegetation and hanging gardens and waterfalls. I was struck by the sound created by the waves lapping into many miniature blow holes: plink, plop, ploink, squish, swish. It would be fun just to capture the sounds and compile them into a composition.

It was about 3:00 pm when we landed on Meyers Beach. There we unpacked and jumped in the van for the ride back to Trek and Trail in Bayfield. Our paddle out to the island and back logged a little over 22 miles. More photos are available in an online gallery. We were happy we had taken our drysuits with us. With the weather and cool temperatures, we stayed quite comfortable. The sign at Meyers Beach noted the water temperature at 41 degrees.

Enchanted Archipelago: Day 1

At 9:00 our guide, Marko, picks us up at Vila Baguc where we’ve been staying in Split. We hop in the van and drive to Trogir to pick up Penny and Phil, a couple from England that are part of our tour. There will be five of us on the Enchanted Archipelago tour. Then we drive to our intended launch point, a beautiful beach at Vinisce. Marko provides the weather prediction which is for wind later in the day. We discuss the options; the plan is to launch from the beach and paddle to Drvenik Mali for a lunch stop.

The clarity of the water and the colors are enchanting. We land on a beach in the harbor at Drvenik Mali. Marko finds a spot to spread out the goods for a picnic lunch.

After lunch there is some concern about the wind. Marko consults with his boss and informs us that we will be taking the ferry for the next leg given the wind. We carry our kayaks up the ramp onto the ferry.

Once the ferry is underway it’s clear we made the right choice. The wind was whipping at about 18 knots with gust to 25. You can see the whitecaps on the water from the deck of the ferry. I kept a log of the day’s activities. The track includes the ferry from Drvenik Mali to Drvenik Viliki.

Even though our paddling was cut short it was a splendid first day of paddling. Once the ferry reached out destination, Marko led us on a short walk to our accommodations at Villa LA. In the evening, we all walked over to a restaurant overlooking the bay for a lovely dinner with a view of the town lit by the setting sun.

Point San Pablo to Bullhead Flat

On the morning of March 1, six of us gathered at the beach at Point San Pablo Yacht Harbor with a plan to paddle across the bay to Bullhead Flat, a destination in China Camp State Park. Since currents, wind and shipping traffic are concerns, we spent some time discussing the plan before launching our boats. With a slight flood we expected the current to push us north, up the bay, so we set a ferry angle taking us more directly across the shipping channel with the current carrying us towards our destination.

We were on the water at 10 a.m. David turned his radio to channel 14 to notify Vessel Traffic Control (VTC) that a pod of six kayakers would be crossing the shipping channel. He was not able to raise VTC. We paddled on until we were outside of Point San Pablo where I was able to contact VTC on my radio. I reported our location, our destination, and the estimated time for our arrival across the shipping lanes. The red buoy marks the starboard (right) side of the shipping lane.

Once across we headed for The Sisters, a couple of islands off of Point San Pedro. Several of us decided to “thread Grendel’s Needle,” a gap in the rocks on the westernmost Sister. We had calm water paddling through the needle. With a stronger current and wind, there can be quite a surge of water.

We were a bit hesitant to paddle the needle since there was a flock of cormorants on top of the island, and we try our best to not disturb the birds when we are paddling. From The Sisters, we paddled north past McNears Beach, past the China Camp Village beach, and on to Bullhead Flat. There we pulled our boats out of the water and found a picnic table to use as we broke out our lunches.

After lunch, it was back on the water for the return trip. The current was now ebbing a bit, so we had the current working with us as we crossed the bay. Again, we set a ferry angle to compensate for the current. The gathering clouds caught my attention on the return paddle, and I thought they made for a lovely photo composition with the kayaks. I’ve posted an online gallery with more photos. You can see a track of our paddle below. We logged 8.3 miles for a very pleasant day on the bay

Calm Between Storms

Friday, January 29. We had calm weather following a storm that wreaked havoc up and down California. Some of our best weather for kayaking happens in the winter in the calm between storms. Come spring, the weather pattern shifts to afternoon offshore winds that create choppy waves on the Bay.

Nine of us were on the water launching from the beach at Ferry Point shortly before 10 a.m. and ready to ride the flood current up the Bay. Our course took us out under the fishing pier and then to the buoy that marks the shipping channel. We had no wind and calm water. Once across the channel we headed north toward Red Rock Island, and from there up to The Brothers, two islands near Point San Pablo.

While we were heading north, a high speed ferry passed kicking up a wake that came at us broadside. I yelled “outside” to my paddling buddies as I turned my boat into the approaching wave. I received a cold, wet slap in the face as the cresting wave broke over the bow of my boat. Tom attempted to surf the wave without much success.

At The Brothers, we found a strong tide rip running between the islands. A few of us decided to play in the standing waves. You can see the disturbed water in one of the photos above.

Then it was over to Point San Pablo Yacht Harbor where we landed on the beach and had a suitably socially distanced lunch. After lunch we were back on the water. With the changing tide, we were able to ride the ebb current back to our launch site.

We all had been admiring the clouds that were off in the distance. To the west towards Mount Tamalpais we could see rain. To the east we had pillows of white cumulous clouds. Chris said the clouds reminded him of a Maxfield Parrish painting. His words inspired me to see if I could capture a photo of the clouds that might be worthy of Maxfield Parrish. I gave the clouds some added emphasis in postproduction to make the point. You view more photos here. Let me know what you think. We logged 12.6 miles over the course of the day. You can view details of our track here.

Mendocino Magic

So many stories to share! I seem to be challenged with finding the time to post them all. Perhaps that’s just as well. I wouldn’t want to bore you with every single adventure. But then I consider this blog to be a log of my adventures, so why not share them all?

I’m going back to September, when we put our kayaks in the water in Mendocino and had a magical paddle. Our kayaking club, BASK (Bay Area Sea Kayakers), has an annual tradition of spending a few days in Mendocino in September. This year with social distancing and the coronavirus pandemic, the club cancelled the event dubbed Mendo Madness. We had been planning on this trip for many months, so rather than just cancel we managed to spend two nights at Van Damm campground and two days paddling. One of those paddles on the Albion River I wrote about not too long ago. Now it’s time to share our coastal paddle.

On the morning of September 20, we launched from Van Damm beach and paddled north. The wave action on the coast was calm and we discovered that we could paddle places that are often too rough to access. Our paddle took us into some magnificent sea caves.

I had a GoPro camera going on my helmet. I’ve finally managed to edit the video down to three minutes that I think will give you the feel for what it’s like to paddle here. Here’s the video clip.

Paddling into the caves with the water glowing a blue-green was magical. This wasn’t about covering distance, but we did cover about four miles while poking along the rocks. We were back on the beach for lunch. After lunch we explored a few caves south of the beach. Here’s the track of our morning paddle.