Category: tourism

Croatia: Walking – Day 2

At 8:30 we were on our way to the Ferry Terminal in Split for our ferry to Brac. We disembarked at Supetar, consulted our walking tour instructions and started our walk along the waterfront. Today’s tour is a loop walk on west side of Brac.

Our walk took us along the coast where we admired sculptures along an azure sea. As we approached the town of Mirca our route turned inland. Mirca had an interesting mix of traditional and contemporary houses. Leaving Mirca our route turned inland. Our directions were a bit confusing so we may have wandered off the prescribed route. Our track then took us back along the coast. A little after 2:00 we reached the town of Sutivan, a charming town of fishermen and farmers with a thousand-year-old tradition closely intertwined with the sea.

From there we started our return leg climbing up into the hills, following stone-lined roads and trails past fields of ancient olive trees.

It was after 6:00 when we finished our loop walk back in Supetar having walked 10 miles. More photos are available in an online gallery.

Croatia: Walking – Day 1

The day before our tour began, we met a representative from the tour company for an orientation. He went over logistics, maps and other details. This included a binder with maps and detailed instructions. We also had an app on our iPhones we could use to guide us. We booked the tour through Macs Adventures; however, they contract with the local company MeridienTen to manage the trips. Both companies provide maps and guides. We discovered that there were a few slight discrepancies between the guides. For additional navigational help we used the app GaiaGPS to track our travels and to resolve the few occasions where the instructions left us confused.

On May 16 we grabbed our day packs and our trekking poles and started our walking journey around Marjan Hill and the Marjan peninsula.

The walk starts along the waterfront along the path of the Olympians. Here every Croatian Olympian medal winner is commemorated with a plaque.

From there our walk took us past a couple of churches and on to Ivan Meštrović’s estate. Ivan was a renowned Croatian sculptor. We stopped and toured the grounds to see some of Meštrović’s works. The gallery was closed so we were not able to view the main exhibits. but a short distance further along our route was Meštrović’s Crikvine, a unique religious and artistic complex with more of Meštrović’s work.

A panoramic view of a coastal city with terracotta roofs, lush greenery, a harbor with a cruise ship, and mountains in the background under a blue sky.
Panoramic view of Split from the top of Marjan Hill

The walk meandered around the penninsula taking us to the top of Marjan hill for a spectacular view of Split and the surrounding coast.

When we reached the western most point of the walk, we were hoping to find a cafe where we could stop and enjoy some refreshments. Unfortunately, since we were early in the season, we did not find any facilities open. We broke out our emergency energy bars and water and enjoyed a few minutes on the beach. Our return walk took us along the north side of the peninsula where the wind kicked up, throwing up whitecaps on the water. We continued our walk, deviating from the prescribed course a bit, looking for a place to have dinner. We found a Pizza place that fit the bill. Once we were back in Split it was time to find some Gelato. Over the course of the day, we walked 12.2 miles. With all of our stops to explore sites the walk took us just shy of 12 hours.

More photos are available in an online gallery.

Exploring Korcula: A Journey Through History and Cuisine

On the afternoon of May 12 we boarded the ferry from Dubrovnik to Korcula. We spent most of our time in Korcula in the Old Town. Founded by the ancient Greeks, it later became part of the Roman empire and eventually a key southern outpost for the Venetian Republic.

The narrow streets are laid out like fishbones to take advantage of the cooling breezes and to provide shade. Having been traveling for a few days, our Air BnB (M&J Central Suites) had a washing machine which we took advantage of, hanging the laundry to dry on the outside clothesline.

After exploring the Old Town on foot, we were feeling quite hungry. It seems that most of the restaurants required reservations, but Pensatore Kitchen & Wine was able to seat us for an early dinner. We had a delightful meal and an introduction to the wines of Korcula. We managed to finish off a bottle of a 2024 Tasovak. Mind you it’s very rare that we ever have more than a glass or two. This was a very fine white wine.

Of course any visit to Korcula has to include a view from the tower of Saint Mark’s Cathedral. I also wandered the Old Town at night to capture some evening photography. More photos are available in an online gallery.

Thursday Paddle: Marconi to Tomales Beach

Tomales Bay is one of my favorite places to paddle, so, when one of my paddling buddies announced a paddle on Tomales Bay, I jumped at the opportunity. One of the hurdles to this location is getting across the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge during rush hour. Google Maps was predicting a driving time of 1:15 when we left. We were on the road at 8:05 and we arrived at Marconi Beach at 9:50. A slow trip, but needless to say we weren’t the last party to arrive, and we were on the water at 10:40.

There were 10 of us, quite a turnout for a Thursday paddle. The prediction was partly cloudy with light winds and a low tide of -0.12 feet at 10:56. Our plan was to paddle across the bay to the Point Reyes peninsula and to use the ebb current to give us a boost to Tomales Beach. The beach at Marconi is mostly gravel with a few rocks. Those with composite boats need to take care in launching.

The calm water made for some interesting photo opportunities with the reflections on the water.

We landed on Tomales Beach at noon, choosing to land on the eastern end of the beach to avoid the shallow water and mud to the west. After lunch we were back on the water. By now we were getting a slight flooding current, which again gave us an assist in paddling back to our launch site. We were back on the beach shortly after 2:00.

You can see the track of our paddle above. Over the course of the day, we logged just a hair over 8 miles. More photos are available in an online gallery.

Low Tide Kayaking: Journey to Windsurfer Beach

Planning a paddle on a low tide can be a challenge. Many of the put-ins around the Bay are mud at low tide. For today’s paddle our leader, Alan, scoped out a paddle starting at the Loch Lomond boat ramp and paddling to Windsurfer Beach. Both locations are accessible on a low tide. Fourteen of us congregated on the grass next to the boat ramp, ready for a paddle on a glorious day. The plan was to follow the channel out towards the southeast corner of the Marin Islands. From there, once in deep enough water, we headed south under the Richmond-San Rafael bridge and then west to Windsurfer Beach.

Our assembly raised the eyebrows of the harbormaster. While he’s quite sympathetic to kayakers, he did express concern about such a large group of us launching from the boat ramp. He asked us to consider launching from the beach at the north end of the harbor in the future. We’re always careful to minimize our time on the boat ramp, but even so we’ll use the beach for future paddles.

We were on the water at 10:30 with a low tide of -0.55 feet at 11:18. Staying close to the edge of the boating channel we managed to stay out of the mud.

Clear skies and calm waters made for a glorious day. Arriving at Windsurfer we picked our way between rocks to find a few sandy and gravelly spots to land our boats.

After lunch we were back on the water for the return trip. The majority of the group opted to return by paddling around the Marin Islands.

Over the course of the day we logged 9.1 miles. More photos are available in an online gallery.

f.64 at SFMOMA

We arrived at SFMOMA (San Francisco Museum of Modern Art) about noon, having ridden BART. Public transit is a great option since driving into the city and parking can be a challenge. We were hungry when we arrived so the first order of business to head up to Cafe 5 where we split a salad.

Then it was off to see the exhibition Around Group f.64: Legacies and Counterhistories in Bay Area Photography. This turned out to be quite an extensive exhibit with work from 31 artists on display, including images from Ansel Adams, Edward Weston and many other photographers. The f.64 group set a new trend in photography creating images of startling clarity and beauty that rivaled art made in other mediums.

The exhibit leads you through the early pictorial style of some of the f.64 members before the group was established. It then moves to many of the images that represented the emerging style of sharpness and clarity. I decided to put my own spin on the exhibit by experimenting with a long exposure app on my iPhone called Slow Shutter with the hope of creating some intentional camera movement. I find these images more provocative than just straight photos that document the exhibit.

The exhibit goes way beyond the work of the original f.64 group. I was particularly intrigued by the work of Tarrah Krajnak. Her work Master Rituals I: Ansel Adams | 2018 to Present was quite provocative.

One of the photos in the show featured an image of a building with the Flag Makers sign on it. When we walked out of the museum, we discovered that the building next to the museum had this signage. I was compelled to see what I could do with my iPhone camera.

The show is up through July 13. If you have an interest in photography, it’s well worth seeing.

16-Day Road Trip Highlights: Scenic Stops and Adventures

On February 11 we climbed in our rig and headed off on a 16 day road trip. On February 27 we returned home after logging 2508 miles and having seen some amazing places. We tend to take our time on road trips. We don’t like to spend more than four or five hours on the road on any given day. There are so many things along the way that catch our attention. And traveling with a dog and a rig that can get us off the beaten track, we tend to avoid busy places like national parks. Suffice it to say that we found some wonderful locations to park our rig and our dog Carson had plenty of off leash time.

Our first destination was Bishop to spend a couple of days with family and to play grandparents. We took our time getting to Bishop, stopping one night at Kern River Campground just east of Bakersfield, and another night at the Alabama Hills.

Here’s a photo of our camp in the Alabama Hills. We timed our trip to avoid a storm that was predicted to play havoc with mountain travel. The storm caught up with us at the Alabama Hills dumping rain on us in the middle of the night.

Our kids like to camp, so after a couple of nights in Bishop we all packed our gear and headed to Goodale Creek Campground. Here’s a photo of us around the campfire in the morning drinking coffee. The third photo shows Joann hiking in a slot canyon at Valley of Fire State Park, one of our destinations on our trip.

From Valley of Fire, we headed to Monument Valley. Using HipCamp, one of the apps we use for locating camping, we found HummingBird Campsite, a private campground.

The highlight of Monument Valley was a tour led by Carl Phillips, a guide who specializes in taking photographers on tours. Being in the Valley at sunrise was a magical moment.

Then it was time to start making our way home. We had no planned itinerary; we were just playing it one day at a time. Taking our time, we discovered the ghost town of Stanton, explored Indian ruins, and walked in the footsteps of dinosaurs.

We did find that mid-February was a bit of a challenge. Nighttime temperatures were a bit low on the first half of the trip, in the low 20s. Many campgrounds were still closed for winter. Having captured over 1000 photos and with many stories to tell, I’ll be posting more details about the trip in separate posts.

A Day of Kayaking: High Tide at Richardson Bay

A high tide of 6.4 feet at 11:12 AM gave us an excuse to paddle up some of the creeks around the north end of Richardson Bay. Under a clear blue sky we assembled on the beach at Dunphy Park. After an orientation, safety talk and radio check we were on the water at 10:00.

We paddled across the bay to Harbor Point, then inside of Aramburu Island and along the shore of Strawberry. We looped back on the outside of the island. Once we were back around Harbor Point, we headed north, and up the creek to East Blithedale Avenue where the creek ended. On the way back down the creek we stopped at Bayfront Park for lunch.

Then it was back down the creek and up Aroyo Corte Madera passing under the bridge at Camino Alto. Then up Coyote Creek to the Flamingo Road Bridge before heading back to Dunphy Park.

I think I set a record for the number of bridges I paddled under on one day. We saw many shore birds and a few harbor seals. We logged 12.8 miles, which is about as far as I will typically paddle on a day. More photos are available in an online gallery.

Kayaking Adventure in Monterey Bay

In January our kayaking club, BASK, makes an annual pilgrimage to Monterey for a weekend of paddling. This year on Saturday, January 11, we congregated at Del Monte Beach just north of the Monterey Bay Kayaks for a safety talk and to organize into pods. There were about 30 of us. We broke up into three pods, the “long pod” that had a goal of paddling out to the buoy off of Point Pinos, a “fast pod” that intended to go as far as Lovers Point, and a “slow pod” that would follow the same route as the “fast pod.”

We opted to join the fast pod. We were on the water shortly after 10:00. There was a little bit of wave action getting off the beach. I felt like I got a bucket of water thrown in my face as I punched through a wave.

Once on the water we paddled out past the harbor, along the shore, and past the Monterey Bay Aquarium, keeping a distance from the white water surging around rocks. We saw what must have been hundreds of sea otters.

Off of Lovers Point Beach we stopped briefly to observe the surf, noting that conditions were not conducive to landing for lunch. We continued paddling out past Point Pinos. As we left the protection of the bay we started to feel the swell. These 8– to 10-foot waves would roll under us as we paddled. It felt like we were paddling up and down hills. Up one side and down the other, or as one paddler suggested, an elevator ride up and down. After getting a sense of ocean paddling, we turned around and headed back.

Track of the Monterey Bay paddle.

We stopped for a few minutes to break out our emergency snacks since we wouldn’t be landing on the beach for lunch. One paddler who felt more confident in the conditions ventured closer to shore and managed to surf a few of the waves. Then it was back to our launch point. You can see the track of our paddle above.

I had hoped to have a smooth landing, but my timing was off, and a wave caught me. As my boat broached, turning parallel to the waves, I was able to brace on the wave and side-surf into the beach without getting dumped. We were back on the beach at 1:00 having logged 7.4 miles. More photos are available in an online gallery.

Last Paddle for the Year

At 9:50 nine of us had our boats on the beach ready to launch. After a short safety talk and a radio check we were on the water at 10:00. Our plan was to paddle out across the shipping channel and then head north towards Red Rock and then on to Point Molate. We would be riding the end of the flood with slack water about 11:00. Alan was appointed our navigator, having set some waypoint on his GPS to help us stay clear of the shipping channels. The instructions were to “follow Alan.”

That said, it seemed like Alan was following the rest of the pod. I seemed to be lagging behind preoccupied with poking at my cameras. I’m using an iPhone 14 in a dive case and my trusty Olympus TG-5, trying to figure out which arrangement I like better. More on that later.

We paddled out to Bouy #6 marking the starboard side of the Richmond shipping channel and turned north towards Red Rock, rounding another Bouy #6 marking the Southampton Shoal Channel. We crossed a couple of eddie lines with some confused water, paddling into a light wind and riding over the wake of a couple of ferries.

From Red Rock we made our way to Point Molate Park landing on the beach at 11:45. With the high tide we didn’t have much beach so we took pains to get our boats well above the waterline. During lunch Evelyn asked for photographic proof that we were enjoying a delicious persimmon bread with bourbon a friend of hers had provided. After lunch we were anxious to get back on the water, since it was a chilly day, despite the sun.

Our return course took us past Castro Rocks where we gave some space to the harbor seals sunning themselves on the rocks. We then paddled past the Chevron wharf and back to our launch site. We were back on the beach at 1:45 having logged 8.4 miles. More photos are available in an online gallery.