Category: culture

Exploring Baja: A 21-Day Camping Adventure

Our Baja trip began in March 13 when we hopped in the camper and started our drive to Loreto. The highlights of the trip included spending a couple of days in the desert to photograph the cirios and cactus and a six day kayaking trip out of Loreto. Those events are covered in separate blog posts. For this post I’m going to describe some of the other highlights of the trip.

We spent our first night at Kern River Campground just east of
Bakersfield. The highlight here was breakfast. We fired up the Dutch oven and cooked up a mushroom and brie breakfast strata, one of our favorite camping meals. Needless to say, the leftovers provided us with breakfast on several days.

From the Kern River we moved on to Anza Borrego Desert State Park where we spent two nights in the Tamarisk Grove campground. Most of the spring wildflowers were gone, but we did find a few cactus in bloom.

From Anza Borrego we headed south and crossed the border at Tecate, an easy border crossing, although we did have to walk across the street to the bank to pay for our tourist cards (Forma Migratoria Multiple, FMM) since the credit card reader at the immigration office was out of order.

We passed through Guadalupe about noon so we stopped for lunch at Tacos del Valle for some delicious tacos, our first meal in Baja.

We reached Fidel’s Palapas, just south of San Quintin, about 5:00 PM, our intended stop for the night. Fidel promptly appeared to collect 300 pesos. Fidel’s has hot showers, running water and electrical hookups, although we didn’t make use of the water or electrical.

From Fidel’s we headed to Cataviña where we spent two nights in the Cactus Wonderland. From there it was on to San Ignacio where we spent one night at Paraiso Misional, our favorite place to camp in San Ignacio. It’s a lovely spot in the shade of palm trees, with hot showers. Then on to Loreto where we had two days to explore the town, having some fabulous food, dining with live music at Baja Haay and enjoying the vibe of the town.

From Loreto we embarked on our six day kayaking tour exploring some of the islands, poking along the coast, paddling, snorkeling and doing a bit of hiking. Before leaving Loreto on our return trip we made a stop at a water vendor to fill our water tank.

We were happy to find that one of our favorite restaurants, Nomadico’s, was open. We stopped for a delicious lunch. Joann had a yellowtail tostada and I had a scallop tostada with a pineapple coconut smoothie. On our last night in Baja we camped at Guadalupe RV park and took advantage of the hot showers. We crossed the boarder again at Tecate, camping at Sycamore Flat Campground in the Angeles National Forest. From there we checked out the Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve. The flower display was past its prime, but we did find a few clusters of flowers. Then it was on to Colonel Allensworth State Historic Park before making the final leg home. We were back home on the afternoon of April 2 having logged 2820 miles over the course of our 21 days.

More photos are available in an online gallery.

Camping in Cactus Wonderland

After a night on the beach at Fidel’s Palapas just south of San Quintín, we were on the road shortly after 10:00. About noon as we were contemplating lunch, we found Restaurant El Sacrificio. One thing I like about traveling in Baja is discovering places to eat.

North of the border it’s franchises surrounded by acres of asphalt with young kids behind the counter. When you order a Big Mac, you know exactly what to expect. Here it’s small family-run establishments by the side of the road with the charm of rural Baja, with posters about the Baja races and local treats. The food always seems to be delicious. We were the only guests for lunch. Excellent food and the opportunity to practice my broken Spanish. After lunch we were back on the road.

Shortly before reaching the town of Cataviña we pulled off onto a dirt road and explored possibilities to camp. We had camped here three years ago on our previous trip.

I wanted to return to spend a couple days exploring the desert. One of the apps we use for navigation, iOverlander, suggested that there were several locations suitable for camping. We explored a couple of dirt roads before settling on a spot. It was just short of 3:00 when we parked the rig.

This would give me two sunsets and two sunrises for photography. Temperatures were also more pleasant in the morning and evening, running about 65 degrees at sunrise. By mid-afternoon the temperature was 85 in the shade and 95 inside the camper. During the heat of the day we pulled out our journals and books and hunkered down in the shade.

Sunset provided some interesting photo opportunities with the cactus and cirios silhouetted against the western sky. Sunrise was not near as interesting. About 20 minutes before sunrise there was a faint glow of color which only lasted about five minutes, and I was not inspired to do much with the early morning light.

We did see a number of cactus in bloom as well as a few ocotillo with their spray of red flowers looking like flames on the tips of their thorny branches.

With the dark night sky, I was inspired to try my hand at astrophotography to see if I could capture part of the Milky Way. I think the resulting image of the cirios silhouetted by a cloud of stars is quite interesting. You can view more photos in an online gallery.

Exploring the Manet & Morisot Exhibit: A Rainy-Day Adventure

What do you do on a rainy afternoon when your house is not inhabitable? While remodeling is going on in our house, we have moved out, renting a house in Mount Hermon. When in town we stay in our camper although hanging out in the camper in our driveway in pouring rain isn’t inviting. So, what do we do? We head to the museum.

Today it’s the Manet & Morisot exhibit at the Legion of Honor. We paid for the audio tour which was well worth the price. I must say that I was not familiar with Morisot, so this was a real opportunity to learn about two of the most influential artists of the age of Impressionism.

The New York Times has this to say:

They were close friends who corresponded often and went to the same soirées, passionate advocates for each other’s art, and eventually siblings-in-law (when Morisot, then in her 30s and facing financial precarity after her father’s death, married Manet’s brother Eugène in an arrangement supported by both families).

As we toured the exhibit, I found myself just as interested in watching people as the artwork. I recall a time when cameras were forbidden in such exhibits, and here people are using their phones to document the work. It’s almost as if the camera-phone has become an essential tool for appreciating art. I became fascinated with the idea of trying to capture the feeling for the experience; people looking at art. Somehow just snapping photos of people looking at art seemed static, so I challenged myself to try to capture images that had a bit of an emotional impact, introducing a sense of motion.

By the end of the exhibit, I had gained respect for Morisot’s work and her view of the world, contrasted with Manet’s.

The exhibit is up through March 1, 2026. It’s well worth seeing if you have the opportunity.

Celebrating 52 Years at Angélique Kidjo & Yo-Yo Ma Concert

To celebrate our 52nd wedding anniversary (August 25), we bought tickets to attend the Angélique Kidjo & Yo-Yo Ma concert at the Greek Theatre in Berkeley.

A crowded outdoor amphitheater showcasing a live performance on stage at the Greek Theatre, illuminated with warm lighting against a twilight sky.
Angelique Kidjo & Yo-Yo Ma at the Greek Theatre

Wow! What a refreshing and rewarding experience. In an environment where cultural experiences seem to be under attack from our current administration in Washington, DC, this concert experience left us feeling uplifted with a strong belief in the power of music and culture. Angélique and Yo-Yo are two extraordinary artists that can step outside the box to create new stories.

The music ranged from African to Carribean to Latin to classical and beyond. At the end of the concert, they had the whole audience engaged in singing and clapping.

And it wasn’t just about the music. They took time to talk about their collaborations, with a historical and cultural context. The concert was titled Sarabande Africaine. I was surprised to learn that the Sarabande was banned in Spain in the 16th century where at the time it was considered lewd and obscene. None the less, it gained popularity and influenced Bach and Handel among others.

The event took place in the William Randolph Hearst Greek Theatre, the longest-running outdoor amphitheater in the country, opened in 1903. Next time we go to an event at the Greek Theatre we’ll take seating pads. The concrete is hard.

Exploring Hvar: A Culinary and Cultural Journey

We spent four nights on Hvar, arriving in Jelsa by ferry the evening of May 19. On the morning of the 20th we slept in. The previous day was a hard day, and we needed the rest. Breakfast at B&B Aurora included hard boiled eggs, ham, salami, croissants, fruit, and cereal among other things. No shortage of food.

We opted for the easy day, walking to Vrboska. Oddly enough I can’t find any photos from that walk. I must have been overzealous in purging files. No shortage of other photos from the trip, so we’ll just move on. Even a seasoned professional can make mistakes. We dined at Murvica, just a short walk from our B&B. We discovered that with enough notice they could prepare Peka, a traditional Croatian dish. We put in our reservation for the next night and returned to feast on lamb Peka.

Peka is traditionally made with octopus or lamb. Joann opted for lamb. This dish is slow cooked in an iron pot, much like a Dutch oven. The dish we were served included lamb, potatoes, onions, carrots and brussels sprouts. Very tasty. After dinner I wandered around town looking for photo opportunities, always something I enjoy in a medieval town.

On the morning of May 21, a taxi picked us up at our B&B and drove us to the top of the island to start the day’s walking tour. This walk led us through two mostly-deserted towns, Velo Grablje and Malo Grablje. These towns were established to produce lavender and rosemary.

There are still a few people living here, but for the most part they are ghost towns. The abandoned buildings provide some interesting photo opportunities.

From Malo Grablje we continued down the mountain to Hvar City where we checked into our accommodations at Villa Nora. We had an excellent dinner just a few feet from our accommodations, feasting on a delicious baked sea bass. You can see more photo in an online gallery.

Croatia: Walking – Day 2

At 8:30 we were on our way to the Ferry Terminal in Split for our ferry to Brac. We disembarked at Supetar, consulted our walking tour instructions and started our walk along the waterfront. Today’s tour is a loop walk on west side of Brac.

Our walk took us along the coast where we admired sculptures along an azure sea. As we approached the town of Mirca our route turned inland. Mirca had an interesting mix of traditional and contemporary houses. Leaving Mirca our route turned inland. Our directions were a bit confusing so we may have wandered off the prescribed route. Our track then took us back along the coast. A little after 2:00 we reached the town of Sutivan, a charming town of fishermen and farmers with a thousand-year-old tradition closely intertwined with the sea.

From there we started our return leg climbing up into the hills, following stone-lined roads and trails past fields of ancient olive trees.

It was after 6:00 when we finished our loop walk back in Supetar having walked 10 miles. More photos are available in an online gallery.

Croatia: Walking – Day 1

The day before our tour began, we met a representative from the tour company for an orientation. He went over logistics, maps and other details. This included a binder with maps and detailed instructions. We also had an app on our iPhones we could use to guide us. We booked the tour through Macs Adventures; however, they contract with the local company MeridienTen to manage the trips. Both companies provide maps and guides. We discovered that there were a few slight discrepancies between the guides. For additional navigational help we used the app GaiaGPS to track our travels and to resolve the few occasions where the instructions left us confused.

On May 16 we grabbed our day packs and our trekking poles and started our walking journey around Marjan Hill and the Marjan peninsula.

The walk starts along the waterfront along the path of the Olympians. Here every Croatian Olympian medal winner is commemorated with a plaque.

From there our walk took us past a couple of churches and on to Ivan Meštrović’s estate. Ivan was a renowned Croatian sculptor. We stopped and toured the grounds to see some of Meštrović’s works. The gallery was closed so we were not able to view the main exhibits. but a short distance further along our route was Meštrović’s Crikvine, a unique religious and artistic complex with more of Meštrović’s work.

A panoramic view of a coastal city with terracotta roofs, lush greenery, a harbor with a cruise ship, and mountains in the background under a blue sky.
Panoramic view of Split from the top of Marjan Hill

The walk meandered around the penninsula taking us to the top of Marjan hill for a spectacular view of Split and the surrounding coast.

When we reached the western most point of the walk, we were hoping to find a cafe where we could stop and enjoy some refreshments. Unfortunately, since we were early in the season, we did not find any facilities open. We broke out our emergency energy bars and water and enjoyed a few minutes on the beach. Our return walk took us along the north side of the peninsula where the wind kicked up, throwing up whitecaps on the water. We continued our walk, deviating from the prescribed course a bit, looking for a place to have dinner. We found a Pizza place that fit the bill. Once we were back in Split it was time to find some Gelato. Over the course of the day, we walked 12.2 miles. With all of our stops to explore sites the walk took us just shy of 12 hours.

More photos are available in an online gallery.

Exploring Korcula: A Journey Through History and Cuisine

On the afternoon of May 12 we boarded the ferry from Dubrovnik to Korcula. We spent most of our time in Korcula in the Old Town. Founded by the ancient Greeks, it later became part of the Roman empire and eventually a key southern outpost for the Venetian Republic.

The narrow streets are laid out like fishbones to take advantage of the cooling breezes and to provide shade. Having been traveling for a few days, our Air BnB (M&J Central Suites) had a washing machine which we took advantage of, hanging the laundry to dry on the outside clothesline.

After exploring the Old Town on foot, we were feeling quite hungry. It seems that most of the restaurants required reservations, but Pensatore Kitchen & Wine was able to seat us for an early dinner. We had a delightful meal and an introduction to the wines of Korcula. We managed to finish off a bottle of a 2024 Tasovak. Mind you it’s very rare that we ever have more than a glass or two. This was a very fine white wine.

Of course any visit to Korcula has to include a view from the tower of Saint Mark’s Cathedral. I also wandered the Old Town at night to capture some evening photography. More photos are available in an online gallery.

f.64 at SFMOMA

We arrived at SFMOMA (San Francisco Museum of Modern Art) about noon, having ridden BART. Public transit is a great option since driving into the city and parking can be a challenge. We were hungry when we arrived so the first order of business to head up to Cafe 5 where we split a salad.

Then it was off to see the exhibition Around Group f.64: Legacies and Counterhistories in Bay Area Photography. This turned out to be quite an extensive exhibit with work from 31 artists on display, including images from Ansel Adams, Edward Weston and many other photographers. The f.64 group set a new trend in photography creating images of startling clarity and beauty that rivaled art made in other mediums.

The exhibit leads you through the early pictorial style of some of the f.64 members before the group was established. It then moves to many of the images that represented the emerging style of sharpness and clarity. I decided to put my own spin on the exhibit by experimenting with a long exposure app on my iPhone called Slow Shutter with the hope of creating some intentional camera movement. I find these images more provocative than just straight photos that document the exhibit.

The exhibit goes way beyond the work of the original f.64 group. I was particularly intrigued by the work of Tarrah Krajnak. Her work Master Rituals I: Ansel Adams | 2018 to Present was quite provocative.

One of the photos in the show featured an image of a building with the Flag Makers sign on it. When we walked out of the museum, we discovered that the building next to the museum had this signage. I was compelled to see what I could do with my iPhone camera.

The show is up through July 13. If you have an interest in photography, it’s well worth seeing.

Explore USS Hornet: A Hidden WWII Gem

Not quite on the radar as a main tourist attraction, the USS Hornet is well worth a visit. It’s of particular interest for those interested in the history of World War II and aviation. She was launched in 1941, served in World War II and also served in the recovery of the Apollo 11 and 12 space capsules. The onboard exhibits include an Apollo space capsule and one of the trailers used to quarantine the astronauts once they had returned to earth.

While in service she was instrumental in shooting down 668 Japanese airplanes and in sinking quite a number of ships. She had quite a colorful history.

The Aircraft Carrier Hornet Foundation preserves the legacy of USS Hornet as a national historic landmark. We visited the Hornet on a Monday afternoon arriving about 2:00 pm. Admission was $15 for seniors. Once onboard we found the docents very knowledgeable and friendly. There were not many visitors that afternoon, so we felt like we had the whole ship to ourselves. Onboard are a variety of aircraft and exhibits, with something for all ages to enjoy. You can even climb into the cockpit of a fighter jet.

We spent about an hour and a half touring the exhibits which gave us a taste for the history. One could easily spend hours here if you wanted to take in the exhibits in more depth. There are also docent led tours to various parts of the ship that are not open for self-guided tours.

The ship was designed for a crew consisting of 86 officers and 1280 men and an air complement consisting of 141 officers and 710 men. I came away from the tour with a greater appreciation for the role of the ship and of the various aircraft that would have flown off the deck of the carrier.